We met Matthew Williams, 1017 ALYX 9SM Creative Director in Paris ahead of his runway show for the presentation of the FW20 Collection. We talked about how he fuels his creativity and how our collaboration was born.
음악과 패션에 대해, 그리고 그 두 가지가 어떻게 연동되는지에 대해 생각을 좀 말해주시겠습니까?
저는 진정으로 음악이 항상 패션과 연결된다고 생각합니다. 다시 말해, 저는 밖으로 나가 사람들이 클럽이나 콘서트장에서 무얼 입고 있는지를 보는 것부터 영감을 얻기 시작하며, 이 두 가지가 항상 뗄 수 없이 연결되어 있다고 느낍니다. 서로가 어느 정도든 똑같이 영감을 불어넣어 주니까요. 손에 손을 맞잡고 있는 셈이죠. 음악은 저의 컬렉션에 대단한 영감을 주며, 노래와 노래의 배경이 되는 사람, 그리고 공연장으로 가는 아이까지, 모든 것이 서로 밀접하게 연관되어 있습니다.
어떤 부분에서 특정한 곡이나 아티스트가 가장 큰 영감을 줍니까?
여러 해 동안 파도처럼 밀려왔어요. 제 말뜻 아시죠? 늘 여러 아티스트가 있지만, 주로 래퍼 Playboi Carti, Smiths 밴드의 Morrissey, 그리고 심지어 Mick Jagger같은 사람들에게서도 영감을 얻고 있습니다. 눈여겨 보고 아이디어를 얻을 만한 사람들이 너무나도 많습니다. 그리고 Iggy Pop같은 사람들도 정말 멋지죠.
지난 여러 해 동안 어떤 종류의 음악을 들었으며, 그것이 의상과 창의적 퍼즐을 디자인하는 당신의 방식에 어떤 변화를 일으켰습니까?
저는 정말 행운아입니다. 제 부친이 음악을 무척 좋아하셨기 때문에 어릴 때부터 레코드판을 들으며 자랐거든요. 소울, 블루스, 록, 그리고 레게까지 모든 음악을 섭렵했으며, 90년대에는 캘리포니아에서 성장기를 보내며 랩 음악에 빠져들었죠. 그리고 그 당시 처음으로 유럽으로 건너가 테크노 음악을 더 많이 접할 수 있었습니다. 한마디로 음악에 대한 애정을 마음껏 발산할 수 있었죠. 저는 어느 장르와 아티스트에 일정 기간 몰입하는 동시에 늘 여러 분야를 오가는 편입니다. 지금은 아프리카 팝도 꽤 좋아합니다.
Watch the interview with Matthew below
In terms of the collab between Alyx and B&O how did it start and what are the synergies between those two things?
I met with the team at the Copenhagen fashion summit, and we really had a lot of shared visions. When that happens, the conversation becomes really fluid so our dialogue became really strong. I've always been a fan of B&O my entire life so it was just a dream to find a way to work on something together. I think definitely the synergies are craftsmanship with all the amazing finishes that you guys do with metal. I also think that commitment to making products that are timeless and last forever are a quality that we share.
Can you tell a little about the design process in terms of designing the Alyx Beoplay E8 motion in together with B&O?
We wanted to really merge the design language of both of our companies and I think that both Bang & Olufsen and Alyx are known for their work with metal, and anodizing and finishing. I felt that was a great way to link the two brands. We also added the graphic branding of our buckle on the case, which I think worked out really well.
The iconic 1017 ALYX 9SM Buckle.
What is the buckle (Alyx iconic symbol) inspired by?
I mean, it has a double and triple entendre, but first, I just like it as an object and it's sculptural shape. The fact that it's made at a place that doesn't make things for fashion, I think, gives it an unseen value. I always remember this documentary where Stanley Kubrick talks about having clothes in the closets of rooms and scenes that nobody ever even sees, but there's this kind of unseen energy that makes its way into the screen through that. I feel the same way about the buckle being made in a way and at a place that's more mechanical with a company that makes engine parts. There is a weight and a sound to it that maybe somebody wouldn't know is why they gravitate to it, but their senses do. And then there’s the fact that I discovered it at six flags magic mountain when I was taking my family there. That's the place in California that you go for graduation or a birthday, or you might kiss a girl for the first time, or get over your fear of heights. So, it kind of represents for me, a place of transition, of being a child in your teen. I like that idea of transition and so it meant those things for me as well.
Which role does the buckle in the collection?
I think the buckle is really like branding now, obviously we will make it functional as much as possible, but it's just like our logo at this point.
How would you describe the craftsmanship of your brand? How do you wave with different kinds of materials?
Well, the exciting thing about fashion is each category takes a lifetime to master, so we're always working and learning new things about shoes, knitwear, leather, tailoring, jersey, jewelry and the list goes on forever. So as we get better and more proficient in each process and build our language with certain materials, there become North Star goals that we really go for and sometimes those developments can take one, two, three years before they finally make their way in the collection. So, from a craftsmanship perspective we're constantly experimenting and trying things and they make their way into the collection when they can. I like to say that Alyx is modern craftsmanship. We use technology when we can or, we do with sustainability to create a new way of doing modern craft and I hope it's apparent when you touch and feel the clothes.